cement tile installation: essential how-to tips & insider insights

pre-installation preparation

one of the most important aspects of pre-installation is ordering the correct amount of tile from the start. because artisan cement tile is handmade in small batches, color and texture will vary from batch to batch. this variation is why batch codes are assigned to each production run; these codes are critical for quality control and ensuring color consistency within your initial order. we strongly advise that you, or your contractor, unpack and inspect all tile immediately upon receipt.

our advice: have your contractor measure (twice) and have them tell you exactly how much tile you need, building at least 15% to 20% overage into the order. to calculate your overage, take the total square footage of your installation area and multiply it by 1.15 for a 15% overage, or 1.20 for a 20% overage (installation sq ft x 1.15 or 1.20 = total tile to order).

this essential overage will help you avoid the dreaded add-on order because matching another order of tile to your order — and thus matching the batch code — will be nearly impossible. take it from us: the failure to order enough tile ends in tears and tantrums. best to avoid all that by taking due care.

ideal conditions for cement tile installation

a critical element of a successful cement tile installation is a stable, climate-controlled environment. the installation area should typically maintain a temperature between 60°f and 80°f (16°c and 27°c) and a consistent relative humidity. extreme temperatures or humidity fluctuations can negatively impact the setting and curing of the thin-set mortar and grout. your contractor should also ensure the space is well-ventilated during the entire process, from setting the tile to final sealing.

choosing the right adhesive

choosing the correct adhesive is non-negotiable for a lasting cement tile installation. for most applications, a high-quality, white, polymer-modified thin-set mortar is the professional choice, as it offers superior bond strength and minimizes the risk of color bleeding from the cement backing onto lighter-colored tiles. your installer should follow the manufacturer's guidelines explicitly, particularly regarding water ratios and curing times, as improper mixing can compromise the integrity of the bond.

surface and substrate prep

not only does a good installation require the right installer, but it will require the right substrate and surface. the substrate is literally the supporting layer beneath your tile that determines the short- and long-term success of the tile installation (and your tile investment). but substrates are complicated. they can flex or warp over time, causing tiles to shift, crack, or loosen. because of this, it’s easy to see that the wrong preparation can not only put your entire installation at risk, but it can be a safety hazard as well.

your contractor is in charge of preparing your space for installation. every install should start with the right substrate and a level, dry surface that is free of paint, adhesive, and debris. emphasis on dry — any moisture underneath your tile will surface over time and damage the tile.

a critical aspect of substrate preparation is ensuring the surface meets the required flatness tolerance, typically no more than 1/8 inch deviation over 10 feet. for wet areas like showers, proper preparation includes establishing a pre-sloped pan to ensure water drains effectively.

selecting the right backer board is vital. common choices include cementitious backer board like durock, which is water-resistant but not waterproof, and waterproofing systems like kerdi, which provide a complete waterproof membrane. your installer will also select the correct materials for bonding: a primer may be necessary to prepare the substrate, and the thinset mortar type (such as modified vs. unmodified) must be appropriate for both the tile material and the substrate.

pitfalls: moisture causes efflorescence

any residual moisture in the substrate, thinset, or grout can lead to efflorescence. this is the white, powdery substance that appears on the tile surface when water evaporates and leaves behind soluble salts. while primarily a cosmetic issue, significant efflorescence is a clear sign of a moisture problem that needs to be addressed to ensure the longevity of the installation.

cutting cement tile

any cutting of cement tile will be done with a high-quality, water-cooled tile saw. for the cleanest cuts with minimal chipping, experienced professionals use a diamond continuous rim wet-saw blade, as this type of blade is best suited for the density of cement tile. proper water flow is critical, as it keeps the blade cool and prevents dust, which helps reduce the risk of cracking the tile.

any contractor worth their salt will avoid dry-cutting cement tile, as the resulting dust and heat will almost certainly lead to chipped edges or cracked tiles. when cutting tiles that are part of a larger pattern, special care must be taken to ensure the cuts are aligned correctly to maintain the continuous design — a crucial step for achieving a professional, seamless final look.

even more so here than with other cement tile installation steps, this is a notoriously messy and intricate process best handled by an experienced professional.

tile placement and adhesive

blending is the careful process of laying out exactly which tile goes where, and it’s an essential step when working with any handmade tile including cement. any professional with experience installing artisan tile will carefully place your tiles — and have you sign off on placement — before installing them. this will take time, but it’s worth it.

as for adhesive: to ensure proper adhesion and lippage prevention, your contractor will likely use a 1/2″ x 1/2″ trowel notch size, applying the adhesive with the comb marks running perpendicular to the tile edge. all cement tile should be back-buttered with a thin layer of adhesive to guarantee full coverage and a strong bond to the substrate. contractors must also use spacers to maintain consistent 1/16″ grout lines.some installers may also choose to use leveling clips, but really, the best prevention for lippage is a perfectly level substrate and meticulous installation.

edging and trim alternatives

at clé we follow the international model of no trim and highly recommend our clients do the same. the international preference for no trim or edging is in part due to the rarity of traditional bullnose pieces for cement tile. furthermore, while schluter profiles are widely available, they often detract from the artisanal, handmade aesthetic of cement tile.

here are our recommendations for trim alternatives for cement:

if your project needs to turn a corner either inwardly or outwardly, mitering the tiles to meet seamlessly in a corner gives it the cleanest, crafted finish.

another way to complete your tiling is to run a bead of caulk or grout along the exposed tile edge.

as with any of our tiles, you can also build out the sheetrock so that the surface of the finished sheetrock is flush with the surface of the tile.

for more information on trim, read our blog on trim alternatives.

grouting cement tile

always check the product page for our latest recommendations on the right grout to use. generally, it’s best to pair the cement collection with unsanded grout and a 1/16″ grout joint width.

grout color selection is best left to the design professional. however, clé is often asked for our opinion on best grout selections for our tiles. due to the large array of grout colors that are now available, clé would like to offer this general guideline on a foolproof grout color selection for any of your clé tiles.

1. have your professional tile contractor complete your tile installation, except for the grout portion.

2. when ready to grout, ask your contractor to bring all grout color charts from their preferred grout manufacturers, for your review. then, have them create grout boards with your preferred colors. this will give you a better idea of the final looks and help your contractor be sure they aren’t using a color that will stain your tiles.

3. choose a time of day when you are most pleased with the lighting in your space (either natural lighting, installed lighting or a blend of both). during that lighting and time of day, review the grout boards and select the grout color that best matches your tile selection.

after your contractor has installed the grout, they should allow it to fully cure. this can take up to 72 hours. the final step before sealing is removing any residual grout haze from the tile surface. a common method for this is using a mild acidic solution, such as a mixture of white vinegar and water. however, your contractor should always use their best judgment, as cement is sensitive to acids. after this step, they should ensure the surface is completely clean and dry before moving on to the sealing process.

for further information check out these grout articles:

how to use grout as a design element in tile installation
the power of grout
why tile grout matters
the art of the grout joint

sealing and finishing

due to the porous nature of cement, all applications (dry and wet) must be sealed after grouting using an impregnating sealant. miracle sealants 511 impregnator is one famous example. typically, this will take two coats.

always check the product page for our latest recommendations on the right sealant to use. in addition, have your contractor seal the mockup boards they grouted to ensure they are using the right sealant. for most installations, their impregnator pro sealant is preferred. please contact the sealant vendor directly if you are looking for other options.

if you are using a colored grout or stain, your contractor should use this product as a grout release to avoid staining and quicken cleanup. they should also use a grout release when working with heavily patterned tile.

grout lines and the tile surface must be sealed as the final step of installation. exterior walls require vertical weather flashing and a waterproof, penetrating sealer. exterior floors must be installed above grade with waterproof, penetrating sealer.

one more important callout: cement tile needs to be sealed regularly, whether installed in wet or dry areas. if used in the shower or areas with heavy traffic (say, bath and kitchen floors or commercial floors) the tile will likely need to be resealed once or twice a year. if used in a dry area, the tile can be resealed less often, such as every one to two years. your contractor can offer more guidance here.

looking for more shine?

we do not recommend using a gloss sealer to add more sheen to a cement tile finish. instead, you can wait for your cement tiles to take on a soft gloss with time, or have a professional finisher polish your tiles. for any further questions, please refer to our cement resources.

maintenance and care

cement floors develop a natural patina as they naturally wear over time. in terms of everyday maintenance, immediately cleaning up liquids such as acid or oil is key. a mild, ph-neutral soap should be sufficient for most situations — just be sure to start with a spot test.

cement tile needs to be sealed regularly, whether installed in wet or dry areas. if used in the shower or areas with heavy traffic (bath and kitchen floors or commercial floors) the tile will need to be resealed once or twice a year. if used in a dry area, the tile can be resealed every one to two years.

applications: floors, walls, wet areas

cement tile is remarkably versatile and can be successfully installed in a wide range of applications.

floors: cement tile is an extremely durable and attractive option for interior flooring in nearly any room, including kitchens, living areas, hallways, and mudrooms. it provides a solid, long-lasting surface that wears beautifully over time. a key consideration for installation is ensuring the subfloor is clean, flat, and structurally sound before setting the tiles. cement tile flooring installations must also be sealed to protect them against staining and moisture.

walls: cement tile brings a vibrant and unique texture to interior walls and is suitable for most vertical applications, such as backsplashes, accent walls, and fireplace surrounds. it is a heavy material, so the main installation consideration is ensuring the wall structure can support the weight of the tile and setting materials. it is often sealed after installation, especially in wet areas, to protect the porous surface.

wet areas: cement tile is a beautiful and highly popular choice for bathrooms, including shower walls and shower floors. while durable in a wet environment, it is porous and must be properly sealed before and after grouting to maintain its performance and appearance. for cement tile in showers, it's important to remember that the tile itself is not waterproof; it must always be installed over a professional, fully waterproofed subsurface or shower pan to prevent any issues with moisture.

remember that cement tile must be installed in an environment where the temperature remains consistently above 50°f (10°c) during and after installation until full curing is achieved. while cement can be used outdoors, it is strictly limited to climates without freeze-thaw cycles. exterior installations in locations that experience freezing temperatures will result in damage to the tile.

cement tile installation tips

we’ll say it again: be sure to hire someone who has experience with handcrafted cement tiles — and lots of it! again, your process should like something like the following:

1. order the right amount of tile to prevent add-on orders.

2. unpack all tiles when they arrive and lay them out for inspection.

3. blend all tiles before having them installed.

4. create mockup boards to gauge the right setting materials, grout, and sealants.

5. place mockup boards in the installation space so you can weigh your options with the correct lighting.

additionally, here are some of the most important things to keep in mind for a high quality installation.

planning the tile layout & utilizing dry layouts to preview the design

every batch of cement tile will have slight variations in tone and saturation, not to mention shape and texture. that means it’s crucial to plan the tile layout before installation. (enter: the art of the blend.) make sure your contractor utilizes dry layouts — and that you are present when they are mapping out the tile — so you end up with a balanced, harmonious look.

ideal conditions for cement tile installation

keep in mind that cement tile should not be installed in exterior locations that will be exposed to frost or freezing temperatures.

wherever you do choose to install your tile, a good contractor will prepare the space properly so you end up with a beautiful, long-lasting installation.

choosing the right adhesive

the adhesive you use will impact the longevity of your installation, so this decision is best left to a professional. factors for choosing the right adhesive include where you are installing it and whether there will be moisture or heat.

diy vs. pro installer

one of the most common misconceptions about cement tile is that it can be a diy job. installing cement tile, especially the handmade, small-batch artisan options we offer, is a highly specialized skill best handled by a seasoned professional who has worked with the material before. the right contractor will understand the unique nuances of cement and take the necessary steps for proper installation, including blending, sealing, and ordering the correct amount of tile from the get-go.

frequently asked questions about installing cement tile

we often get questions about where you can install cement tiles, and the short answer is: almost anywhere! there are a few exceptions to keep in mind, depending on where you would like to install them.

are cement tiles suitable for outdoor installation?

cement tile can be installed virtually everywhere, including outdoor patios and verandas. there are, however, a few caveats. for instance, cement tile can only be installed externally in non-freeze/thaw locations, and when installing it near a hot surface such as a pizza oven, there must be at least a 6″ space between the tile and hot surface. also note that in sun-exposed areas, all tile colors will fade over time.

can cement tiles be installed on both floors and walls?

yes, absolutely. cement tile can be used on almost any surface, in large and small areas. kitchen floors, exterior floors and walls, sink backsplashes, and fireplace surrounds are all common installation areas. you could even install cement tile on the ceiling.

can cement tiles be installed in wet or high-moisture areas, like laundry rooms, kitchens and bathrooms?

cement tile is a popular option for high-moisture and wet areas, including bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms. if installing tile on a shower floor, keep in mind that your shower tile installation will still need a shower pan, which provides a waterproof surface to lay the tile on. in addition, be sure to consider the best size cement tile for showers.

always work with a contractor who understands how to do install a shower pan, tile, and additional elements corectle while creating the proper drain slope. otherwise, you may see drainage issues down the road. this is important for any type of shower floor tile but especially cement.

for wet and high-moisture areas, tiles sealed during installation and maintained regularly will last for many years.

can cement tiles be installed over existing tile or hardwood flooring?

while existing flooring in good condition can sometimes serve as a subfloor for a new layer of tile, we never recommend this practice. the bond between your adhesive and your tile is one of the most important factors in ensuring your tile floor will last for years to come, and therefore a fresh installation is best.

can cement tiles be refinished?

of course. the beauty of any unglazed tile, including cement, is that it can be refinished by a professional refinisher to bring it back to a like-new finish.

interested in installing cement tile in your home? take a look at our many, many handmade cement tile options.